This video outlines the essential process of degreasing and properly lubricating a spring-powered air rifle, whether it's new or used. The primary reason for this maintenance is that factory-applied greases often prioritize corrosion protection during storage over optimal performance in use, and secondhand rifles have unknown lubricants. The procedure involves disassembling the rifle, specifically removing and cleaning the piston and the crucial compression tube using a degreaser like aerosol brake cleaner. The most important aspect of relubrication is the exclusive use of Molybdenum (Moly) based greases, as other common lubricants like oil, silicone, or red rubber grease can damage the rifle or lead to performance issues such as "dieseling" or moisture absorption. Proper application involves a small amount of moly grease on the spring and a thin, even layer rubbed into the piston, with attention paid to other metal-on-metal contact points for enhanced performance and longevity.

This roundtable discussion among airgun experts, including "the godfather of airguns" Tom Gaylord, delves into the nuances of airgun maintenance, challenging common assumptions about frequent cleaning. While many believe regular cleaning is essential for airguns, the experts generally agree that airguns are largely self-cleaning through use, and over-cleaning can even negatively impact accuracy. The primary focus of maintenance shifts from bore cleaning—which often removes harmless pellet residue rather than dirt—to addressing specific issues like performance degradation or external exposure to the elements. Key distinctions are made for different airgun types: CO2 guns require lubrication of cartridges and removal of small cartridges after use to prevent seal wear, while PCPs benefit from retaining some pressure to protect internal seals and prevent dust intrusion. The discussion also highlights the importance of following manufacturer guidelines for cleaning when available, using appropriate tools and lubricants like bore whips and silicone oil, and protecting guns from moisture and rust with products like Ballistol, especially after exposure to inclement weather. The experts strongly advise against using cleaning pellets due to their ineffectiveness and potential to damage certain gun components.

1. Change oil every 3000 miles or every 12 months.
2. Change transmission oil around 60 000 miles. Or every 6 years. Do not flush the oil
3. Coolant needs to be replaced regularly - say once every 50 000k miles or every 5 years.
4. Replace the timing belt if it's not a chain. 60k miles or 7 to 10 years.
5. Keep spark plugs fresh - but modern one's last quite long 60k to 100k miles - just check them the moment you get the car and make sure your expensive iridium sparkies haven't been stolen during other services!!!
6. Replace fuel filter every 50k miles or every 6 years.
7. Brake fluid replacement e very 3 to 5 years.
8. Of course the brake pads and tires should be replaced as soon as they are clearly in need - usually around 30 to 50k miles but it all depends on driving habits.
9. Change wipers regularly
10. Regular differential and transfer case service - replace the heavy duty oil - every 30k to 50k miles.

The "Car Wizard" debunks the pervasive myth that certain automotive fluids, particularly transmission fluid, last the "lifetime of the vehicle" without requiring service. He explains that car manufacturers and dealers often define a vehicle's "life" as significantly shorter than what many owners expect, often around 150,000-200,000 miles, rather than 300,000-400,000 miles. Through a compelling comparison of new and used transmission fluid from a 187,000-mile Lexus, the video vividly demonstrates how essential fluids degrade due to heat, friction, and metallic wear, becoming contaminated and losing their effectiveness. The Car Wizard strongly advocates for regular fluid changes around every 100,000 miles to extend a vehicle's true longevity, warning that neglecting this maintenance can lead to premature component failure, especially in transmissions, and that independent shops are generally more willing to perform these crucial services than dealerships.

This source explains how to eliminate the irritating noises from windshield wipers and make them last longer. The primary cause of noise is often a deformed wiper arm mechanism, which can be fixed with a couple of tools by slightly adjusting the angle. Beyond physical repair, the video details a cleaning regimen using WD40 followed by denatured alcohol to remove built-up debris from the wiper blades. Finally, applying a product like New Finish car polish to the clean windshield makes the glass slick, allowing the wipers to glide smoothly and function optimally.

Use OEM transmission fluid...or all fluids really.

In this video, This Old House general contractor Tom Silva shares tips for keeping a roof free of moss and mold

When parking on a hill, apply emergency brake before shifting to park. This puts the force that prevents the car from rolling down the hill on the brake and not the transmission.